When To Use a Face Oil in Your Routine (And How To Get It Right)

Face Oils and Deeper Skin Tones: What You Need To Know

Face oils have a complicated reputation. Some people swear by them. Others worry they'll clog pores or make skin look greasy. If you have a medium to deep skin tone, you may have been told to avoid them altogether — which is, frankly, terrible advice.

The truth is that knowing when to use a face oil in your routine makes all the difference. Used at the right moment, a face oil can strengthen your skin barrier, reduce the appearance of dark marks, and give deeper skin tones that healthy, lit-from-within glow that no highlighter can replicate.

Let's clear up the confusion for good.

What Does a Face Oil Actually Do?

Face oils work by sealing moisture into the skin and supporting your natural lipid barrier — the protective layer that keeps hydration in and irritants out. For melanin-rich skin, a compromised barrier often shows up as dullness, uneven texture, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that takes longer to fade.

A good face oil doesn't just sit on top of your skin. It works with your skin's natural sebum to reinforce, nourish, and protect. The key is choosing the right oil for your skin type and placing it correctly in your routine.

Face Oil Routine Order: The Golden Rule

Here's the rule most people get wrong: oils go after water-based products, not before them.

Oil and water don't mix — and oil creates a semi-occlusive layer on the skin. If you apply an oil before your water-based serum or moisturiser, those products can't penetrate properly. Your skincare essentially sits on top of the oil, doing very little.

The correct face oil routine order looks like this:

  • Cleanser
  • Toner
  • Serum (water-based)
  • Moisturiser
  • Face oil (to seal everything in)
  • SPF in the morning (always the last step)

Think of face oil as the final lock on your routine — it keeps everything underneath working harder for longer.

When To Apply Face Oil: Morning, Evening, or Both?

This depends on your skin type and what you want to achieve.

Evening use is where a face oil really earns its place. At night, your skin goes into repair mode. Applying a nourishing oil as your last step supports that process and means you wake up with softer, plumper, more even-looking skin. For deeper skin tones dealing with hyperpigmentation or dullness, a consistent evening oil routine can make a visible difference over time.

Morning use can work beautifully too, especially if your skin leans dry or your environment strips moisture quickly (central heating, cold weather, and air conditioning are all culprits). A lightweight face oil applied before SPF gives a smooth, luminous base. Just make sure your SPF goes on top — always.

If you're oilier, start with evenings only and see how your skin responds before adding a morning step.

Will a Face Oil Make Oily or Acne-Prone Skin Worse?

This is one of the most common concerns — and it's understandable. But here's the reality: not all oils are created equal, and oily skin is often actually dehydrated skin trying to compensate for a lack of moisture.

Lightweight, non-comedogenic oils (ones that won't block pores) can actually help regulate sebum production over time by giving the skin what it needs. The trick is to avoid heavy, occlusive oils if your skin is congestion-prone, and to use a very small amount — a few drops is genuinely enough.

If you have active breakouts, introduce face oil slowly and pay attention to how your skin reacts over two to four weeks.

Face Oil as a Cleanser: A Game-Changer Worth Knowing

Here's something that often surprises people: one of the best times to use a face oil in your routine isn't at the end — it's at the very beginning.

Oil cleansing is the first step of a double cleanse, and it works on the principle that like dissolves like. An oil-based cleanser melts away sunscreen, makeup, and the pollution that settles on your skin throughout the day — without stripping or disrupting your skin barrier. For deeper skin tones, where barrier disruption can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, this is especially worth considering.

You apply the oil to dry skin, massage it in, then either rinse or follow with a water-based cleanser to remove any residue. It's one of the gentlest, most effective ways to cleanse — and it leaves skin feeling nourished rather than tight.

Quick Reminders for Getting It Right

  • Always apply face oil after water-based products, not before
  • A few drops is all you need — warm it between your palms and press into skin
  • SPF always goes last in the morning, even over oil
  • Start with evenings if you're new to face oils or have oilier skin
  • Oil cleansing at the start of your routine is entirely different to moisturising with an oil at the end
  • Give any new oil at least three to four weeks before judging results

The Right Oil for Melanin-Rich Skin

Understanding when to use a face oil in your routine matters — but so does choosing one that's been formulated with your skin in mind. Many oils on the market are too heavy, too fragranced, or simply not tested on deeper skin tones.

What works best for medium to deep skin is a thoughtfully blended, lightweight oil that cleanses without stripping, nourishes without clogging, and supports your skin's natural barrier rather than overwhelming it.

Try Sustain — Our Oil Cleanser Made for Your Skin

If you're ready to bring an oil into your routine, start with Sustain from Like It On Top. It's a natural, vegan oil cleanser handmade in the UK, designed specifically with deeper skin tones in mind. Use it as your first cleanse to dissolve the day gently and completely — your skin barrier will thank you for it.

Discover Sustain at likeitontop.com and make it the first step in a routine that truly works for you.

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